Stinson Beach: Natural beauty with small town charm By Julie Pitta "Stinson is the Hamptons of the west," says one local who recently converted her summer home into a year-round residence. But while the Hamptons have gone glitzy, Stinson Beach has retained its down-to-earth character despite the influx of money from nearby San Francisco. It’s the kind of place where a carpenter will rub elbows with an investment banker at one of the two watering holes in Stinson’s tiny downtown. SCENIC DAY OR WEEKEND EXPLORATION Stinson is only 20 miles north of San Francisco making it a perfect weekend getaway. It’s easy to see why Stinson Beach is home to some of the country’s most expensive real estate. As realtors like to say, "It’s location, location, location." The drive which starts by crossing the Golden Gate Bridge and then winds along the Northern California coast along Interstate Highway One is among the most beautiful anywhere. It swings by Muir Woods National Monument , named for conservationist John Muir, where you’ll see a magnificent forest of coastal Redwood trees. Another potential stop is Mount Tamalpais , a 2,571 peak offering panoramic views west to the Farallon Islands, east to Mount Diablo and south to San Francisco. On an exceptionally clear day, you can even see the snow-capped Sierra Nevada Mountains some 150 miles away. Bordered by water and mountains, Stinson is no more than a narrow strip of land along a sandy beach. Its tight geography has sent real estate prices here soaring; a modest three-bedroom house can sell for a million or more – and that’s without an ocean view. GREAT FOR FAMILIES, BUT PRICEY Still, Stinson and its sensual beauty are very suitable for families looking for needed down time and togetherness. Finding the right lodging is the key to any affordable vacation; in Stinson, it presents a greater challenge. Strict zoning laws have kept large motels and hotels from spoiling Stinson’s landscape. There are no campgrounds or RV parks. Although a handful of bed and breakfasts dot the outskirts of town, few welcome children. A better option is to rent a house. The rates aren’t cheap – a three-bedroom, two-bath home near the beach can go for as much as $800 a weekend and $2500 a week. But when you consider the convenience and savings that come from cooking your own meals, it is the sensible choice. Two local realtors in the rental business are : Highway One Properties and Seadrift Company Realtors . Reserve several months advance to get the widest range of choices. Savvy travelers will haul their week’s worth of groceries from home since Stinson has one grocer, tiny Becker’s Market on Highway One. Becker’s is unique: its coffee cart and sturdy wood benches act as something of a town center. It's a place for locals to trade gossip and local news. Store shelves are stocked with organic produce, imported pasta, and chocolates and fine wines. But Becker’s is best used sparingly if you want to stay on budget. As the only grocer in town, it can afford to keep its prices high. THE BEACH Now that the practicalities are taken care of, what makes Stinson so special? It’s a combination of natural beauty and the time in which to enjoy it. There’s never a rush in Stinson. Schedules are an anathema here. It won’t take you and your family long to adjust to Stinson and its easy ways. Most families spend most of their day on the beach. Early fall is the best time of year for beach lovers: warm currents make the usually icy water more hospitable to swimmers, boogie boarders, and surfers. And, the morning fog tends to burn off earlier – late morning rather than early afternoon -- than during other times of the year. Occasionally, there will be a shark sighting that will close the beach for five days. If you’re in need of gear, Live Water Surf Shop on Highway One rents surf boards, boogie boards, kayaks and bicycles. Kayaking on the gentle waters of the Bolinas Lagoon saltwater estuary is a popular activity. The lagoon is a preserve for Great Egrets and Great Blue Herons that that feed and winter there. Harbor seals also call the lagoon home and can often be seen lounging on its sandy spit. The seals should be observed from a distance; getting to close is considered harassment and will draw a fine. GREAT BIRDS About a mile down Highway One is the Audubon Canyon Ranch , established in 1962 to save a heron-nesting site from commercial development. At the time the ranch was founded, California’s majestic great Blue Herons and Great Egrets, the state’s largest wading birds, were in danger from commercial development that had cut down many of the trees that served as their nesting spots and filled in the tideland where they fed. On weekends, the Ranch hosts guide nature walks through the lagoon and the Bouverie Preserve at the ranch where during the spring you can see these giant birds and their young. A self-guided hike takes visitors to a vista point equipped with telescopes for viewing the birds in their nests. THEATER, MOVIES, BOOKS For the culturally minded, there’s Shakespeare at Stinson , outdoor performances of the Bard’s most popular plays. Audience members can choose from a seat, laying out a blanket for picnicking on the lawn, or a boxed seat with a table for dining. The season begins in May and continues through early October. Tticket prices run about $30 for adults and half that for children. (During some preview performances, children are admitted free.) If you are in the mood for an evening indoors, stop at the video rental store, Odyssey Video . It has a good selection of G-rated films. And since you are in the area, be sure to stop by Stinson Beach Books . It has the dubious distinction of sitting on the San Andreas Fault. Don't let that stop you; the store has a marvelous children's books section as well as adult fare that goes well beyond the top sellers. FOOD AT STINSON For a cook’s night out, Stinson has three restaurants: The Sand Dollar , The Grill and The Parkside . The Sand Dollar and The Grill sit across from each other in the heart of downtown on Highway One, and both have bars and outdoor dining. Both serve a menu of pasta dishes, fish entrees and hamburgers for prices that range between $10 and $20. A special treat is the fried calamari and the barbecued oysters, equally good. The Grill offers a children’s menu with the ubiquitous chicken fingers, burgers and dogs. Be sure to stop in at The Grill and share a killer brownie sundae. This sinful concoction is the perfect ending for a day of outdoor fun. During the high season, The Grill and The Sand Dollar provide music on the patio. Beware : the volume can be deafening. The Parkside is more elegant, both in its décor and menu, and the prices tend to reflect it. However, its Sunday brunch is a special treat with fresh-based muffins and scones, fresh-squeezed juices and fanciful renditions of pancakes, waffles and eggs. For smart travelers, even the most exclusive destination need not be ruled out. With a little planning, the scenic wonder that is Stinson Beach can be available to you and your family, and you will be richer - in experience if not in dollars- for having gone. NOTEWORTHY WEBSITES, CONTACT INFO: Lodging: Highway One Properties: www.hwyoneprop.com ; 415/868-0288. Seadrift Company Realtors: www.seadriftrealty.com ; 415/868-1791. Recreation: Audubon Canyon Ranch: www.egret.org ; 415/868-9244. Shakespeare at Stinson: www.shakespeare@stinson.org ; 415/868-1115. Muir Woods: www.muirwoods.org ; 415/388-2596 Food: Sand Dollar Restaurant: 3458 Shoreline Hwy; 415/868-0434 Stinson Beach Grill: Hwy 1; 415/868-2002 Parkside Cafe: 43 Arenal Ave.; 415/868-1272 Entertainment: Odyssey Video, 3620 State Highway 1; 415/868-2809. Stinson Beach Books, 3455 State Highway 1; 415/868-0700. Julie Pitta is a former senior editor at Forbes Magazine. She lives in San Francisco with her husband Fred, their 4-year-old daughter Olivia, and their two fluffy orange cats, Seamus and Maurice. [Back to Top]   [Back to Index]