Tackling S.F. Chinatown is easy and fun on Grant Avenue By Kathy Chin Leong The dangling ducks on a wire noose at Yee’s Restaurant are essential to Chinatown’s exotic window dressing, my friends. The plumpest and shiniest yield the juiciest meat. I should know; I grew up here. I also crave roast duck. A walk down the neighborhood’s main artery, Grant Avenue, jolts the senses into overdrive: old men sawing on their erhu Chinese violins, souvenir shops jammed with squadrons of tiny faux jade buddhas, video stores airing Chow Yun Fat kung-fu movies on their portable DVD players, meat butchers smoking as they hurriedly slice up a strip of char sui pork, Martin Yan-style. Chinatown newbies are overwhelmed when they come, for they don’t know where to start. Here’s the scoop on what to taste and see when ambling along Grant Avenue. GOOD EATS A gastronomical feast of epic proportions awaits in Chinatown. From savory to sweets, there’s a family-owned eatery on every single street in this quadrant that runs for 24 square blocks. Let’s start with Yee’s Restaurant (1131 Grant; 415/576-1818). Cheap with good portions. I suggest either rice plates or noodle plates where you can expect large saucy portions of duck, roast pork, and other poultry and meats that make for a memorable lunch or dinner. You can get a decent meal for $5 to $10. The counter also is open for the to-go crowd. Don’t get scared when you see the ballooned pink squids swelled to the the size of footballs in the window. People do eat them; I don’t, but others do. Ready for dessert? Eastern Bakery (720 Grant Ave., 415/433-7973  )is known for its coffee crunch cake, so line up early. It is an antiquated establishment and is looking a bit seedy these days. But the sponge cakes, almond cookies, and bean pastries are still a delight. You can also find traditional fare such as apple turnovers. I love the lotus beancakes. Be a good sport and buy a box of things you never tried before to have a bit of fun. Be willing to line up and vie for the clerks’ attention with a loud voice. Just point to the goodies inside the glass display. During the Moon Festival in October, this is THE place to purchase a box of mooncakes which run approximately $20. Incredibly sweet, the hocky-puck-sized, dark, bean-filled cakes comes in a set of four to a box come with or without egg yolks in the center. You can also purchase them individually. Everytime I pass by the Golden Gate Bakery (1029 Grant, 415/781-2627) there’s a line of at least ten people, locals and tourists all waiting patiently for their turns. What’s the fuss? The egg custard tarts are what people praise the most. Just take a look at reviews under www.yelp.com . Other goodies here include fabulous char-su-bows (pork buns), its banana roll cake, and sponge cakes. Okay. Now if you want ice cream or some cold confection, a new place has opened on Broadway and Grant. Yoogo Gelato Ice Cream (601 Broadway; 415/398-2996) sells low-cal gelatos and creamy sorbets. This is an amazing Asian ice cream store with interesting flavors such as black sesame gelato, Japanese purple wild rice, durian. While not cheap at $2.95 for a single scoop, this is a unique treat, and the scoops are large. They also do interesting things such as put the flavor item on the name of the treat- beads of rice on the rice ice cream; cookies on the Oreo flavor, etc. Be sure to sit inside to look around. The lime green couch and coffee table against a scarlet wall looks like something out of a Vogue Magazine page. Walls are also painted lime and mustard, completing the cool pop-art look. Customers can sit on the couch or on cushy purple bar stools with small high tables.Also on the menu are savory and sweet crepes, starting at $3.95, which are rolled like a waffle cone. Yum! FRAGRANT TEAS Two new tea houses have opened up, where the owners are finally unfolding the ancient mystery of Chinese tea to people in English. Imagine that! These new tea bars are trendy and hip, clean and well lit. Customers sit as the tea sommelier explains the different teas and steeps them as they wait. As we passed by, the customers were mostly out-of-towners, eager to listen and learn. The walls are lined with dry tea leaves of every ilk. Some look like rolled up pillbox bugs; others like seedlings; still others like weeds. Not pretty, but each flavor has a story to tell of where it came from. Tea owners explain how long to nurture the leaves under hot water to bring out its best flavor. When you go to Vital Tealeaf ( 1044 Grant Ave., 415/981-2388) be prepared for fun.Visitors cannot resist the banner that screams FREE TEA TASTING. The owners put on a comedy routine as customers line up and sit down to something that looks like a long sushi bar. When I went with my husband and son, the guy in charge said, "Hey, get your butt in here and put it in this chair! This ain’t no tea lounge. It’s a tea bar." With that, we laughed and sat down for the next 45 minutes to sip at least eight different types of tea directly shipped from China, all with fascinating names: blue tea, lychee black tea, dragon well white tea, milk oolong. The shop carries over 350 varieties. Take note: angel green tea costs a mere $800 a pound. Many teas cost about $40 or more per pound. Visitors can purchase a few ounces at a time. While the teas are costly, patrons can think of paying for a show that is both educational and hilarious. The guys may insult you, but it’s all in good fun. Red Blossom Tea Company ( 831 Grant Ave., 415/395-0868) sells a variety of teas and gives free tea samples in its elegant store. Recently remodeled after decades in operation, the family- run business is now in the hands of the next generation that knows marketing well. In the past, tea leaves were identified only in Chinese. Today, the jars are large and names are written clearly in English with precise computer-generated labels. Quiet and clean and upscale, this spot is a great discovery for people in unfamiliar Chinese tea territory.The hosts steep it for customers right away, and explain the many nuances to this age-old beverage. It’s the proverbial hole-in-the-wall treasure, very serene, and only two people can be served and instructed at a time. Others can wander through this bowling alley of a store and sniff and read the clear jars. SHOPPING While the tacky souvenir stores with cheap slippers and bamboo backscratchers are still here, a handful of tasteful stores now sell lovely home décor items that your friends can actually admire. Silk pillows with clean, simple designs and an array of colors, purses, bed spreads, lamps, and more are chic and affordable. Gone are many of the souvenir stores with the cloying smells of incense. Asian Image (800 Grant Ave., 415/398-2602) is another shop with similar items. On display are tasteful art scrolls, water fountains, lamps and candleware, jewelry and purses. Shopping for gifts a lot of fun. Unlike the old days of Chinatown, Asian Image Boutique (800 Grant Avenue,415/398-2602) carries fine silk tunics, elegant pillows, and things I would not be ashamed to bring home to decorate my house. In the past, home décor items were very loud and gaudy- scarlet reds and bold black Chinese characters for luck and prosperity would be plopped on everything. Today, the color palette is much more pleasing. Hues from wasabi green to teal to peach blossom pink are soothing to the eye and kind on the pocketbook. Red Blossom Tea Company ( 831 Grant Ave., 415/395-0868) sells a variety of teas and gives free tea samples in its elegant store. Recently remodeled after decades in operation, the family- run business is now in the hands of the next generation that knows marketing well. In the past, tea leaves were identified only in Chinese. Today, the jars are large and names are written clearly in English with precise computer-generated labels. Quiet and clean and upscale, this spot is a great discovery for people in unfamiliar Chinese tea territory.The hosts steep it for customers right away, and explain the many nuances to this age-old beverage. It’s the proverbial hole-in-the-wall treasure, very serene, and only two people can be served and instructed at a time. Others can wander through this bowling alley of a store and sniff and read the clear jars. Cooking enthusiasts will find every type of wok utensil and Chinese cookbook at The Wok Shop (718 Grant Avenue, next door to Eastern Bakery, 415/989-3797) The store is densely packed with chopsticks, wok lids,bowls, and teapots, different shaped woks, and cookbooks. You can take classes through the store as well. Visiting Chinatown this weekend? Be confident as you peruse Grant Avenue. You can eat cheap, learn about Chinese teas, and even take home a delectable, juicy roast duck--beak, head, and all.  **** NOTEWORTHY WEB SITES: * www.sanfranciscochinatown.com   – for listings of food, attractions, museums, parking and more. * www.wokwiz.com  – for a memorable food tour of Chinatown. * www.asianimage.com  – for Asian collectibles and giftware. * www.vitalleaf.com   - for a list of teas from the store. * www.redblossomteacompany.com  - for a list of teas and how to make them. * www.wokshop.com- for info and classes on cooking. * www.easternbakery.com  – for directions and food orders. **** Kathy Chin Leong used to dread going to Chinatown as a kid. She has since changed her mind. [Back to Top]    [Back to Index]