All Day, All Night: A New Adventure Awaits at Ghirardelli Square By Kathy Chin Leong
For years, locals like myself would shy away from Ghirardelli and Fisherman’s Wharf because of the crowds and overemphasis on touristy stuff that seemed too expensive and silly to enjoy. Now I eat my words. These two side-by-side shopping and dining enclaves are a roaring delight for families, for groups of friends, singles. Gourmet dining, you like? Hilarious activities, you like? Nice sleeps, you like? Of course you do!
Under new ownership, Ghirardelli Square (www.ghirardellisq.com) is undergoing a renaissance to become a relevant destination for locals and a fresh encounter for tourists. The historic chocolate factory and woolen mill still has the 1864 brick buildings and original architecture, but houses new tenants offering desirable goods and foods to draw a hip crowd.
These include: a doggie boutique, a juice shop with on-demand creations, two wine lounges, a pub, handmade jewelry and art retailers, soap and lotion shops, an oil and vinegar store, and more. Each store, according to management, is to offer some type of consumer experience be it an art demonstration, samples to taste, or something to touch and feel or discuss with a gourmand or craftsman.
WINE In the center of the square, in the Plaza Building, the Wattle Creek Winery (www.wattlecreek.com) is the storefront that stands out for its incredible crystal chandeliers and shiny champagne pink draperies that makes it look like you should be going to Cinderella’s ball instead of a wine room. When you go for a tasting, the wine master at the counter will first pour you a glass of their sparkling wine, just to get you in the mood. It’s small and elegant with tables on the outside to sit down and enjoy a glass or two.
Downstairs, the Bluxome St. Winery (www.bluxomewinery.com) draws crowds with its voluminous warehouse space with plenty of seating in its outdoor area and enclosed patio. The wide counter offers plenty of room to mosey up to the bar. Locals night is every Wednesday from 5-7 p.m. I enjoyed the casual atmosphere and the various vintages we tried as we sat at circular wood tables on the enclosed patio and sipped and waxed poetic. Unique labels include The Hounds, a sweet wine dubbed “slightly sweet, mightily mischievous.”
DINING Newest to the scene is Waxman’s (www.waxmanssf.com). Led by James Beard award winner Jonathan Waxman, this enterprise blends the best of California and Italian cuisines. I came with my foodie companion Lizzie from Hawaii. We got giddy over the Wood Oven Baked Rock Point Oysters with fennel and brown butter. And next we inhaled the seared calamari salad with greens and chick peas and herb aioli dressing. Fascinating! Special that day were three types of mushrooms with local greens, parked over slices of toasted sourdough bread. All in all, the menu was clever, tasty, and inventive. The ‘industrial chic’ interior is comprised of exposed brick, an open ceiling with a highway of metal piping, wood tables, oak flooring and black metal pendant lights. This design reminded me that, yes, I was inside a former warehouse that held a San Francisco story close to its heart.
For a snack, go to Le Marais Bakery (www.lemaraisbakery.com) , featuring rich Stumptown coffee from Portland, a barrage of sweets and a well-curated bistro savory section of sandwiches. Then when the kids get the hungries, head to Lori’s Diner, which offers burgers and fries as well as all-day breakfast.
Entertainment is slated throughout the week with a musician or a busker with a special skill. You can hang out, and eat, and sample, and listen to your heart’s delight. Making it very convenient to spend time, the square now features a community beer garden on Thursdays through Sundays from 12-7 p.m. featuring Lagunitas beer. Folks can buy to-go foods and sit down at tables to visit with friends and family.
SLEEPS And when you have sipped and swalled and shopped until your wallet practically melted, what should you do next? Anchoring the square is the Fairmont Heritage Place (www.fairmont.com/heritage-place), a luxury residence condo hotel, ideal for families and groups. The all-suite hotel offers guests a personal butler, private balcony and fireplaces. You get access to a town car and chauffeur driver for local excursions.
While my buddy Lizzie and I were here, we had the opportunity to enjoy the two-bedroom rooftop suite, with doors that open right to the large shared patio with an outdoor firepit and couches that seem to lure you to take a nap under the sunshine. The patio features views of the bay and the Golden Gate Bridge. If you have a chance to book this category of room, do so. Room availability can be tight, as these are individually owned. However, treat yourself and your family to a dose of luxury. My friend Ellen treated her family one Christmas with a two-night stay at this opulent retreat, and she gave the property a thumbs up for location, convenience, and elegant amenities and décor. Rooms start out at $674 at night, but check for deals.
The suites boast gourmet kitchens and living rooms with the latest TV and sound technology. Bathrooms and bedrooms are burst with fluffy white towels and white linens. The exposed brick in most rooms again reveal the romantic remnants of this historic building. Although you are in the heart of a busy tourist area, you will be delighted to find that the rooms are pleasant, restful, and quiet. This is just the place you need to settle down in after a hectic day of pounding the pavement. In the mornings, all guests have access to a gourmet continental breakfast with breads and pastries, cereals and fruits, and an egg dish to fuel guests with protein.
I learned my lesson. I don’t have to wait until I have out-of-town guests to visit Ghirardelli Square. The views of the bay, the free events, shopping and dining in a cool setting will draw me back. And like my friend Ellen, I may treat my family to a holiday weekend as well.
**** DETAILS Ghirardelli Square 900 North Point St. San Francisco www.ghirardellisq.com
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